Surf Coast Times & Bellarine Times

Mike and Melissa Brown from Gemtree Vineyards over in McLaren Vale were enjoying a rare day out for a lucky few of us in the industry keen to sample their wines and learn their story.

Melissa (nee Buttery) is a third-generation wine grower and is a trained viticulturist, whose family owns huge vineyards in the area and supplied the big companies back in the day when harvests of 15 tonne to the acre were the norm and very profitable.

But it wasn’t until 1998 that they got serious and started producing their own wines, with Mike at the helm, with his visions for what the wines from ‘The Vale’ should be like, aligned with sustainability practices, biodynamics, and new grape varieties better suited to the local climatic conditions.

Inspiration for newer varieties was taken from Spain, where varieties such as ‘Albarino’ (white) and ‘Tempranillo’ (red) thrive.

Over lunch it was explained just how hard it is to make a buck. Disappointments of the ‘Savagnin’ (Albarino) experiment (read tasting notes below) and a saturated market don’t make it any easier – however they’re committed to making the best of what they’ve got and the wines speak volumes of their determination and the sheer hard work and quality that goes into their production.

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2011 Gemtree ‘Moonstone’ McLaren Vale Savagnin $20
One hundred per cent biodynamic, this was originally planted under the assumption that the variety – ‘Savagnin’ – was the famous Spanish dry white ‘Albarino’. You can understand the heartache and disappointment when it was discovered that apparently the powers that be that control these things got it wrong big time, and the variety was actually a little known variety from France known as ‘Savagnin’. But, as some say, “out of adversity comes opportunity” and Gemtree has produced a light, taut, racy and fresh dry white with plenty of appeal via melon, white peach and pear fruit flavours. Definitely a perfect summer aperitif. A big tick here! Serve chilled with seafood.

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2010 Gemtree ‘Luna Roja’ McLaren Vale Tempranillo $20
My first impression? Utterly delicious. The vintage is a pearler and the overall feel of the wine is all about the fleshy, savoury nuances with velvety tannins. There’s lots to like here: good dark colour, intense red fruits, violets, plums, chocolate, liquorice, and spice all wrapped up in a medium-bodied, smooth finish. So easy to drink, match it with some spicy chorizo.

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2009 Gemtree ‘Bloodstone’ McLaren Vale Shiraz $20
A lovely wine that captures the very essence of those vibrant, lifted red currant/blue violet aromatics, and plush ripe dark McLaren Vale fruits. Yields were low which concentrated the fruit flavours increasing their finesse, vibrancy, power and intensity, yet keeping a harmonious balance and softness on the finish. Again, delicious and incredible value for money.